Sintra, Portugal 19.11.2019

Entrecampos Railway Station

I got moody and disappointed under the influence of the inclement weather though I saw no point staying in the hotel just because it’s just drizzling.

I was headed to Sintra, a major tourist destination in Portugal to the west of Lisbon, famed for its picturesqueness and its numeric historic palaces and castles. It took about half an hour by train from Entrecampos Railway station, the closest station to the hotel I stayed.

There were not much to see en route but just some austere residential buildings which looked exceptionally grim and dreary in the rain.

Sintra Railway Station

Stepping on the atmospheric cobblestones platform of the Sintra Railway Station, I shivered with the abrupt drop in temperature. Under the dual influence of the rainy damp weather and unbearable coldness, I even considered backtracking to Lisbon. Fortunately, my tolerance and persistence paid off.

Sintra

Thankfully the rain stopped and my body got much warmer as soon as I’d left the station for the Sintra National Palace.

Being ranked the wealthiest and most expensive municipality in Portugal, posh villas, gardens and historic estates dotted the hilly town. Classiness, grace and serenity brimmed below the concrete of Sintra.

At this point, I was very appreciative of myself for staying behind.

Avenida Almeida Garrett

I found my peace and solitude I’d longed for here in this quiet alley which leaded me to the surprise of the day.

Quinta da Regaleira

Please pardon my ignorance, I have to acknowledge that, before that day, I’d never heard of Sintra or Quinta da Regaleira, one of most famous UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Portugal.

What brought me there was a total serendipity, namely the ‘search nearby attractions’ function found in the Google Map. And what made me pay for the entrance fee was the astonishingly exquisite manor house, or the Palace, officially, at which I completely marveled.

According to Wikipedia, classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Quinta da Regaleira consists of the Romantic palace and chapel, and an expansive luxurious park featuring lakes, grottoes, wells, benches and fountains.

Initiation Wells

I was given the impression that the Initiation Wells was obviously the place-to-be as I realized only the image of one of the Initiation Wells was printed on the cover of the tourist leaflet.

I was still completely clueless why it was a must-see while I was standing right in front of its inconspicuous rocky entrance.
However, I was gobsmacked as I was walking down the spiral stairs, gingerly and astoundingly.

According to Wikipedia, I was walking in the larger one of the two Initiation Wells. Interestingly enough, the Wells have never been served as water source and they’re used for ceremonial purpose including Tarot initiation rites.

When I hit the bottom of the stairs, there’s an intriguing and intertwining tunnel network connecting the smaller well and the exits back to the gardens.

The Palace, Quinta da Regaleira

After rambling through the manicured garden loaded with exquisite fountains, grottoes, benches, chapel and whatnot for quite some while, I reached the Palace of the estate.

Standing in front of one of the most elaborately embellished structures ever, characterized by exuberantly gothic pinnacles, gargoyles, capitals and an impressive octagonal tower, I kept staring at it in awe and sheer amazement for a decade. And my deep admiration for the masterpiece and its creators didn’t wane a bit when the utter intricacy of the design of the interior came into sight.

Villa Sassetti Hiking Trail

After leaving the Quinta da Regaleira, I noticed, atop the mountain, an indistinct castle-like structure was covered by a thick blanket of fog.

I was thinking if I could reach there because it seemed too high, too far, too strange and too uncertain.

Instead of taking any form of transport, I made a bold attempt to climb up the mountain through the Villa Sassetti Hiking Trail. Such audacious decision was in a way fearful and uncertain but the flip side was excitement and challenges.

Walking cautiously solo through the muddy, slippery, tortuous, undulating uphill hiking trail in the foggy weather with much uncertainty and trepidation, I came upon a young lady in a sporting outfit moving her cumbersome mountain bike downhill on her own. I subsequently came to realize that she was neither a local nor a Portuguese but an American girl from New York.

Before that, I’d had the preconception that nobody but the local Portuguese would hike in this obscure, remote countryside. But now, I am so grateful to that New Yorker lady for being my eye-opener.

Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros)

Having hiked for about an hour, I nailed it and hit the peak where the Castle of the Moors was sited.

Sadly, an extensive part of the Castle and the panoramic view of the town of Sintra were completely gone because of the dense fog. Having said that, I was still pumped and had the satisfaction with the physical and mental capacity that I had to make me reach the mountain top despite all the uncertainty.

Due to the very low visibility, I didn’t stay there for long.

According to Wikipedia, the Castle of the Moors was built by the Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries as an important strategic point. And it’s classified as a national monument, part of Sintra Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros)

Estrada da Pena

On my way back to the town downhill, neither did I take any form of transportation, nor the previous hiking trail, I made another bold attempt to take the ordinary concrete road for vehicle traffic. I’m so sure that it can hardly be of any kind of ‘bold attempt’ for the locals. But for me, a total stranger coming from the other side of the globe who even hadn’t heard of Sintra before that day, it definitely was a bold attempt and a big challenge.

Yet this kind of attempt and challenge is just so beautiful and also indispensable for having a meaningful and enjoyable trip and life.